Timeline for GPIO relay signal cross turns to all relays staying on after Darlington added
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
40 events
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Jun 16, 2020 at 10:47 | history | edited | CommunityBot |
Commonmark migration
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S Jun 14, 2018 at 17:41 | history | bounty ended | CommunityBot | ||
S Jun 14, 2018 at 17:41 | history | notice removed | CommunityBot | ||
Jun 13, 2018 at 19:19 | vote | accept | Brad W | ||
Jun 13, 2018 at 19:18 | answer | added | Brad W | timeline score: 0 | |
Jun 10, 2018 at 20:34 | history | tweeted | twitter.com/StackRaspi/status/1005911003358531585 | ||
Jun 10, 2018 at 19:32 | answer | added | SDsolar | timeline score: 1 | |
Jun 9, 2018 at 14:44 | comment | added | OyaMist | Brad, I've run my entire grow tent with 24V and 12V pumps for months using PiMoroni Automation Hat and AdaFruit FeatherWing Non-Latching relay. I started with relays such as yours and had unpleasant experiences with them. I currently favor the FeatherWing because it is easily replaceable. These relays are mechanical and wear out after a few months. | |
Jun 8, 2018 at 22:23 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Update info found after rechecking wiring and the new status of the relay functionality.
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Jun 8, 2018 at 13:23 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Cleans up images not related to current configuration and issues. Adds tested voltage outputs of the current configuration from IN1 and IN2 of one relay board(2 relays).
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Jun 7, 2018 at 21:15 | comment | added | Shreyas Murali | yes. you're right. I went over the schematic again and realized I was a bit confused (for some reason i thought the RY-VCC went to the red wire on the relay o/p side) . I however found a relevant article here i hope you find something helpful there. | |
Jun 7, 2018 at 20:26 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Updates the location of the Darlington chip's dimple that indicates pin 1 to correctly reflect the way I have it mounted.
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Jun 7, 2018 at 20:20 | comment | added | Brad W | Wait, the relays aren't directly supplying power to the fish tank equipment. They're only acting as a switch that interrupts power supply to turn them on and off. I thought you meant I needed to add an external power supply to actuate the relays. | |
Jun 7, 2018 at 20:09 | comment | added | Shreyas Murali | the voltage and current rating (+safety margin) of the combined load on the relays (pump(s) and fish feeder in your case) would decide that. you could start with a bench power supply or invest in a smps, something that looks like this but rated for your relay/load. you could also poke around on aliexpress/amazon/ebay and find something cheaper. | |
Jun 7, 2018 at 19:58 | comment | added | Brad W | @ShreyasMurali can you recommend an appropriate external power supply for the application? | |
Jun 7, 2018 at 18:54 | comment | added | Shreyas Murali | Looking a bit closely at your circuit diagram/pciture I noticed you have the jumper that shorts RY-VCC and VCC (on the 3 pin header). As you driving a "heavy load", you'd want to try removing the jumper & provide an external power to RV-VCC as recommended here: VCC and RY-VCC are also the power supply of the relay module. When you need to drive a large power load, you can take the jumper cap off and connect an extra power to RY-VCC to supply the relay; connect VCC to 5V of the MCU board to supply input signals. | |
Jun 7, 2018 at 18:06 | comment | added | crasic | This is a wiring problem, I use these relays in production settings exactly as you have without additional drivers and they work without a hiccup. @Milliways the optoisolator is useful, it doubles as a logic translator (it is sensitive to 3V3 input) and relay coil driver , the extra isolation is common | |
Jun 7, 2018 at 16:11 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Update the title to reflect the current situation
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Jun 7, 2018 at 15:01 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Adds new image of current wiring now with 7 relays. Original 4 relay image can be disregarded.
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Jun 7, 2018 at 5:55 | comment | added | Milliways | If you want an answer you still need to add a circuit schematic, no one can tell what is happening with that maze of wires. Adding a " Darlington transistor" is unlikely to help, especially as you don't specify how it was added. The relays claim to require 15-20 mA - the GPIO can source 16mA. Using modules with Optocoupler is pointless - the relay should supply all the isolation you need. These are inappropriate relay modules; a simple module driven logic levels would be more appropriate | |
S Jun 6, 2018 at 15:49 | history | bounty started | Brad W | ||
S Jun 6, 2018 at 15:49 | history | notice added | Brad W | Authoritative reference needed | |
Jun 6, 2018 at 15:43 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
added 546 characters in body
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May 29, 2018 at 8:10 | answer | added | tlfong01 | timeline score: 1 | |
May 29, 2018 at 1:12 | comment | added | Shreyas Murali | Let us continue this discussion in chat. | |
May 29, 2018 at 1:08 | comment | added | Brad W | The Fish Feeder and ATO relay labels were mixed up in the schematic. It's fixed now. | |
May 29, 2018 at 1:07 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Fixes mislabel of Fish Feeder and ATO relays
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May 29, 2018 at 0:25 | comment | added | Shreyas Murali |
I'm bit more confused now. According to the schematic, relay labelled fish_feeder is connected to IN1 -> (blue line) -> GPIO18 and relay labelled ATO is connected to IN2 -> (yellow line) -> GPIO14 . the script however maps fish_feeder to GPIO14 and ATO to GPIO18 . which relay is what now ? Are the labels ATO and Fish Feeder incorrectly swapped on the diagram or in the code ?
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May 28, 2018 at 23:24 | comment | added | Brad W |
@ShreyasMurali sorry for the non standard wire colors. I was trying to work with what I had on hand. But they are colored and connected as diagramed with the exception of the yellow wire coming from the IN2 Fish Feeder relay. I had to splice a piece of black onto it to reach the gpio 14 screw connection on the hat.
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May 28, 2018 at 23:06 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
added 839 characters in body
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May 28, 2018 at 21:53 | comment | added | Shreyas Murali | Looking a bit closer at the wiring diagram, looks like there are 3 yellow wires, one is a ground, one goes to IN1 (fillpump) of the relay board 1 on the LHS and last one to IN2(ato) of the board on the RHS. my guess is (1) you might have swapped two signals in the actual wiring compared to the diagram (2) and/or there is some bug in the script you are using. it would help to include your script as is. Also found a relevant link that shows a RPi with this relay module you could use to test your script | |
May 28, 2018 at 21:29 | comment | added | Shreyas Murali | Could you clarify A and B map to which relays (fill_pump/drain_pump/fish_feeder/ato) ? (PS: the colors used on the wiring diagram are bit confusing. typically black represents ground, red is +5V, yellow is +12V, and white/blue/green/orange etc are for GPIO signals) | |
May 28, 2018 at 20:38 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
edited body
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May 28, 2018 at 20:34 | comment | added | Brad W |
@ShreyasMurali I'm just using github.com/fivdi/onoff. I call new Gpio(14, 'out') for example and then use the .writeSync() method to set it to either 1 or 0 to open or close the relay.
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May 28, 2018 at 20:08 | comment | added | Shreyas Murali | you might want to include the program/script you are using to control the relays. | |
May 28, 2018 at 19:59 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Add schematic image plus actual pics. Ground and VCC pin holes are not exact.
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May 28, 2018 at 19:40 | history | edited | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
Add schematic drawing. Ground and VCC pin holes are not exact.
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May 28, 2018 at 15:36 | comment | added | joan | We need a schematic and photos of the wiring. | |
May 28, 2018 at 15:17 | review | First posts | |||
May 29, 2018 at 15:55 | |||||
May 28, 2018 at 15:14 | history | asked | Brad W | CC BY-SA 4.0 |