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Jun 16, 2020 at 10:47 history edited CommunityBot
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S Jun 14, 2018 at 17:41 history bounty ended CommunityBot
S Jun 14, 2018 at 17:41 history notice removed CommunityBot
Jun 13, 2018 at 19:19 vote accept Brad W
Jun 13, 2018 at 19:18 answer added Brad W timeline score: 0
Jun 10, 2018 at 20:34 history tweeted twitter.com/StackRaspi/status/1005911003358531585
Jun 10, 2018 at 19:32 answer added SDsolar timeline score: 1
Jun 9, 2018 at 14:44 comment added OyaMist Brad, I've run my entire grow tent with 24V and 12V pumps for months using PiMoroni Automation Hat and AdaFruit FeatherWing Non-Latching relay. I started with relays such as yours and had unpleasant experiences with them. I currently favor the FeatherWing because it is easily replaceable. These relays are mechanical and wear out after a few months.
Jun 8, 2018 at 22:23 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
Update info found after rechecking wiring and the new status of the relay functionality.
Jun 8, 2018 at 13:23 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
Cleans up images not related to current configuration and issues. Adds tested voltage outputs of the current configuration from IN1 and IN2 of one relay board(2 relays).
Jun 7, 2018 at 21:15 comment added Shreyas Murali yes. you're right. I went over the schematic again and realized I was a bit confused (for some reason i thought the RY-VCC went to the red wire on the relay o/p side) . I however found a relevant article here i hope you find something helpful there.
Jun 7, 2018 at 20:26 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
Updates the location of the Darlington chip's dimple that indicates pin 1 to correctly reflect the way I have it mounted.
Jun 7, 2018 at 20:20 comment added Brad W Wait, the relays aren't directly supplying power to the fish tank equipment. They're only acting as a switch that interrupts power supply to turn them on and off. I thought you meant I needed to add an external power supply to actuate the relays.
Jun 7, 2018 at 20:09 comment added Shreyas Murali the voltage and current rating (+safety margin) of the combined load on the relays (pump(s) and fish feeder in your case) would decide that. you could start with a bench power supply or invest in a smps, something that looks like this but rated for your relay/load. you could also poke around on aliexpress/amazon/ebay and find something cheaper.
Jun 7, 2018 at 19:58 comment added Brad W @ShreyasMurali can you recommend an appropriate external power supply for the application?
Jun 7, 2018 at 18:54 comment added Shreyas Murali Looking a bit closely at your circuit diagram/pciture I noticed you have the jumper that shorts RY-VCC and VCC (on the 3 pin header). As you driving a "heavy load", you'd want to try removing the jumper & provide an external power to RV-VCC as recommended here: VCC and RY-VCC are also the power supply of the relay module. When you need to drive a large power load, you can take the jumper cap off and connect an extra power to RY-VCC to supply the relay; connect VCC to 5V of the MCU board to supply input signals.
Jun 7, 2018 at 18:06 comment added crasic This is a wiring problem, I use these relays in production settings exactly as you have without additional drivers and they work without a hiccup. @Milliways the optoisolator is useful, it doubles as a logic translator (it is sensitive to 3V3 input) and relay coil driver , the extra isolation is common
Jun 7, 2018 at 16:11 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
Update the title to reflect the current situation
Jun 7, 2018 at 15:01 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
Adds new image of current wiring now with 7 relays. Original 4 relay image can be disregarded.
Jun 7, 2018 at 5:55 comment added Milliways If you want an answer you still need to add a circuit schematic, no one can tell what is happening with that maze of wires. Adding a " Darlington transistor" is unlikely to help, especially as you don't specify how it was added. The relays claim to require 15-20 mA - the GPIO can source 16mA. Using modules with Optocoupler is pointless - the relay should supply all the isolation you need. These are inappropriate relay modules; a simple module driven logic levels would be more appropriate
S Jun 6, 2018 at 15:49 history bounty started Brad W
S Jun 6, 2018 at 15:49 history notice added Brad W Authoritative reference needed
Jun 6, 2018 at 15:43 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
added 546 characters in body
May 29, 2018 at 8:10 answer added tlfong01 timeline score: 1
May 29, 2018 at 1:12 comment added Shreyas Murali Let us continue this discussion in chat.
May 29, 2018 at 1:08 comment added Brad W The Fish Feeder and ATO relay labels were mixed up in the schematic. It's fixed now.
May 29, 2018 at 1:07 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
Fixes mislabel of Fish Feeder and ATO relays
May 29, 2018 at 0:25 comment added Shreyas Murali I'm bit more confused now. According to the schematic, relay labelled fish_feeder is connected to IN1 -> (blue line) -> GPIO18 and relay labelled ATO is connected to IN2 -> (yellow line) -> GPIO14. the script however maps fish_feeder to GPIO14 and ATO to GPIO18. which relay is what now ? Are the labels ATO and Fish Feeder incorrectly swapped on the diagram or in the code ?
May 28, 2018 at 23:24 comment added Brad W @ShreyasMurali sorry for the non standard wire colors. I was trying to work with what I had on hand. But they are colored and connected as diagramed with the exception of the yellow wire coming from the IN2 Fish Feeder relay. I had to splice a piece of black onto it to reach the gpio 14 screw connection on the hat.
May 28, 2018 at 23:06 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
added 839 characters in body
May 28, 2018 at 21:53 comment added Shreyas Murali Looking a bit closer at the wiring diagram, looks like there are 3 yellow wires, one is a ground, one goes to IN1 (fillpump) of the relay board 1 on the LHS and last one to IN2(ato) of the board on the RHS. my guess is (1) you might have swapped two signals in the actual wiring compared to the diagram (2) and/or there is some bug in the script you are using. it would help to include your script as is. Also found a relevant link that shows a RPi with this relay module you could use to test your script
May 28, 2018 at 21:29 comment added Shreyas Murali Could you clarify A and B map to which relays (fill_pump/drain_pump/fish_feeder/ato) ? (PS: the colors used on the wiring diagram are bit confusing. typically black represents ground, red is +5V, yellow is +12V, and white/blue/green/orange etc are for GPIO signals)
May 28, 2018 at 20:38 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
edited body
May 28, 2018 at 20:34 comment added Brad W @ShreyasMurali I'm just using github.com/fivdi/onoff. I call new Gpio(14, 'out') for example and then use the .writeSync() method to set it to either 1 or 0 to open or close the relay.
May 28, 2018 at 20:08 comment added Shreyas Murali you might want to include the program/script you are using to control the relays.
May 28, 2018 at 19:59 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
Add schematic image plus actual pics. Ground and VCC pin holes are not exact.
May 28, 2018 at 19:40 history edited Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0
Add schematic drawing. Ground and VCC pin holes are not exact.
May 28, 2018 at 15:36 comment added joan We need a schematic and photos of the wiring.
May 28, 2018 at 15:17 review First posts
May 29, 2018 at 15:55
May 28, 2018 at 15:14 history asked Brad W CC BY-SA 4.0