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I am trying to get the following RPI3B+ to work. Apparently the machine is booting ok, since I can see it using nmap on my local network:

# nmap  192.168.0.23
Starting Nmap 7.70 ( https://nmap.org ) at 2019-07-09 17:37 CEST
Nmap scan report for 192.168.0.23
Host is up (0.0056s latency).
Not shown: 996 closed ports
PORT     STATE SERVICE
111/tcp  open  rpcbind
139/tcp  open  netbios-ssn
445/tcp  open  microsoft-ds
8080/tcp open  http-proxy
MAC Address: B8:27:EB:1F:09:2E (Raspberry Pi Foundation)

But I get no display, if I zoom right next to HDMI connector here is what I see:

enter image description here

One of those four components seems to be sideways. Would that explain why I get nothing on the screen ? Is that even fixable ?

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    The title of the question is pretty different from the body. The title asks what these components are called and the body shows some components, one of which seems to be damaged, and then asks if this can cause a lack of output. – Jasper Jul 10 at 7:56
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While the official Raspberry schematics don't tell a thing about these components we can learn from the picture of the PCB that they are connected to the paired pins 1 and 3, 4 and 6, 7 and 9, 10 and 12 - that's all the differential signal and clock lines.

Since the devices have just four pads (not six) they are not dual-rail clamp ESD protectors, e.g. see here, as these would need to be connected to GND and VCC too.

As they are connected to the paired lines of the differential signals these devices are very likely Common Mode Filters to suppress EMI, e.g. see here.

This is how they are connected in the differential circuit (source). Note that if they are missing or not properly connected the circuit is broken - thus no display is working:

differential circuit diagram

And this is how they look - pretty much like the stuff mounted to the Pi - (source):

component render

Suggested repair: try to resolder the component if you have the equipment and skills to do so. Make sure to not thermally damage the component. Note that high speed TMDS differential signal routing at high frequencies is rather critical. Parasitic loads and asymmetries to the transmission lines may disturb the signals to the point of a failing transmission.

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    If you recently bought the RPI, you can send it back, as the sideways component is a clear indicator of a "dead on arrival" product – Ferrybig Jul 10 at 12:47
  • Could be an indicator of physical damage due to improper handling, but I doubt any retailer has the time to diagnose a "DOA" return. – JPhi1618 Jul 10 at 19:43
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While I can't specifically identify them from this picture where any markings they may have are hidden, that is almost certainly the problem with your HDMI output. If you look at the three that are not sideways, you can see that solder goes from their connectors down to the runs on the board. It appears each one has four connections, and the two presumably necessary connections visible in your picture are clearly broken. This appears to be from damage after manufacture, as there is also solder coming up off of the pads that appears to have separated from the component. As the pads were not lifted from the circuit board, what is visible could be probably fixed with the appropriate equipment, but there is no guarantee that other physical damage isn't present.

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    To elaborate further on the appearance of post-manufacture damage, this COULD be a manufacturing defect; the component could have stuck to the equipment that was installing it and lifted away while the solder was still malleable. It just seems unlikely given that the solder from the board is standing straight up. – rpseu Jul 9 at 16:05
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    You should add the comment to the answer. – Ingo Jul 9 at 18:05
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highlight of cold solder joint

What you have is a manufacturing defect called a cold solder joint. There was not enough heat or flux present to properly wet the solder to the component.

This is a very weak joint, and may have passed any electrical test the manufacturer may (or may not) have performed. This can be caught by human or automated visual inspection of the board.

The joint could have broken at any time. However, this is definately a manufacturing defect, and you can likely make a warranty claim on it. I believe that if the joint was properly soldered, the PCB pads/traces or the component would be damaged. Solder joints are pretty strong.

As mentioned in other answers, it's completely possible to fix this. However, on the other side of the component (which we cannot see) are two more solder joints. These may or may not have wetted properly. If they were strong joints, the movement of that component may have lifted the pads/traces from that part of the board. This is okay! They will still conduct, just be careful not to break them. Once you fix it, put a bit of epoxy over it to hold it down, as those pads are no longer performing their mechanical duty of holding the component stable.

Here's a link to IPC 610, which is the standard followed by most manufacturers. That link says "proposed", but it's a good example. I don't think I can link the real thing. Check out the section "5.2.4 Soldering Anomalies – Nonwetting"

IPC-T-50 defines nonwetting as the inability of molten solder to form a metallic bond with the basis metal. In this Standard, that includes surface finishes, see 5.2.1.

  • Don't we see a part of the component still on the board ? like they've been snatch off ? In this case if he want to repair he will need spare of theses components... – Arnaud Jul 10 at 6:53
  • To me, that looks like just solder. The component still has the terminals attached. – Steve Jul 10 at 6:58
  • The half down part of the component look black not shiny like a metal part… That's what is scaring me… – Arnaud Jul 10 at 7:10
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    I think that end is lifted up off the board. I think that they go to the bottom of the component and then that's shadow. Hard to tell though without magnification or being able to view from different angles and moving the light around... – Steve Jul 10 at 7:18
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Is that even fixable?

Certainly, if you have the required skills. I would put high-temperature solder flux around the component and heat it up until the tin melts, at which point the component could be moved in position using a needle or a wooden toothpick, preserving the traces.

Another option is to de-solder the component completely and re-solder it back correctly. This would require a thick iron for removal and a thin one for re-soldering. Putting extra flux or tin will help to get all the pads of the component to de-solder at once. For re-soldering, you can glue the component in position and then do the joints, or solder one joint while the component is positioned correctly, then finish the other 3.

Don't try to move the component while it's soldered: tiny traces break easily and are difficult to rework.

Bear in mind that trying to fix anything voids the warranty, so if you're not confident you will succeed, it's best to get the board replaced / refunded.

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