I was having trouble while booting up my Raspberry Pi powered by LiPo batteries.

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Ignore the components inside the blue circle I am just connecting the batteries, the darlington transistor and the coverter. The darlington transistor is used for switching when the power is connected I am getting 5v from the dc-dc converter, but it is not properly running the rpi. The rpi is running if i neglect the transistor, and connect just the batteries and the converter. I think there is an initial current surge when rpi is connected which either the transistor or the converter is unable to cope up with. Any workaround for this?

  • 1
    Add a schema of your circuit.
    – MatsK
    Commented Oct 2, 2017 at 19:10
  • Added the basic schematic Commented Oct 3, 2017 at 4:01
  • If that TP4056 module has a DW01A chip, be aware that it has current limiting. It will cut off load if too much current is drawn.
    – user2497
    Commented Oct 3, 2017 at 15:30
  • My problem arises without even connecting the TP4056 chip. Commented Oct 3, 2017 at 15:40

3 Answers 3


If the red PWR led is on solid, no flickering, the power supply is probably okay.

it just blinks its green led

This indicates an issue with the SD card. Have you tried using a normal power supply? Most likely it will do exactly the same thing.

The significance of the blinks is summarised here, although this may vary from one firmware version to another and as far as I am aware the Foundation does not publish anything official about it. But the long and the short is there is something non-viable about your boot partition (anything wrong with the second, root partition would dealt with by the linux kernel, which does not blink anything but outputs to console).

  • The red PWR led is not on, but the raspi have had booted up before, even when the red LED was not on. Commented Oct 3, 2017 at 3:35
  • The red led indicates a solid power connection. It is intended to flicker when undervolted (which often happens with a sudden increase in current draw if the source is insufficient). If it is right off something is wrong.
    – goldilocks
    Commented Oct 3, 2017 at 11:40

I've powered up a raspberry pi 2 and the official 7" screen with a 3.7V lipo battery and a powerboost 1000C by adafruit successfully without any power issues.

The schematic is available, so you might want to take a look at it.


I've been testing a system with 6 li-po (2 in paralell with 3 in series) supplying a 100W UPS (from Aliexpress) regulating to 15V, and such 15V going into a LM2576 buck to 5V/2,5A to supply Pi 4 + 7" HDMI display, and it gives me 8h hours of battery power with no worries. The "rest" of the power from the 15V UPS goes into an isolated 9V/5A buck for my application (miliohmmeter), which gives me 50+ measurements (in 5A for 3 seconds each) capabilities. So far working all right.

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