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The Micro-USB port has been brutally ripped off from the PCB on my Raspberry Pi along with traces connecting it.

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I know that I can power the device from GPIO 5V and GND, but there will be no protection.

I am looking for some way to power the Raspberry PI without bypassing the protection; Perhaps without replacing USB port, I could just solder out wires on other components if that is possible in my situation.

  • How did it happen? If there are no other options, you should just resolder it in. Im guessing 6 places to solder. – Darkest N2O Dec 19 '17 at 20:43
  • I have 2 very active kids... I don't think I can resolder them. 2 side traces which are holding connecter are gone. Small traces from 5 only 2 left. Front 2 big traces also gone. – Pablo Dec 19 '17 at 20:47
  • 1. Get a very good power supply that limits to your needs. 2.Buy a new micro USB adapter thingy and try resoldering that. If you are still under warranty, the foundation might replace it for you (not sure) – Darkest N2O Dec 19 '17 at 20:51
  • 1. I would like to re-use my USB power supply, just rip off the USB connector and solder to PCB directly or through some floating connector. 2. I would like to see if I can avoid buying new things. It was purchased year ago and I checked, there is no warranty that the shop can carry. – Pablo Dec 19 '17 at 21:19
  • More destruction. I like it :) Just make sure you do it properly so you don't have to buy a new supply. I am not sure about other methods of fixing this. – Darkest N2O Dec 19 '17 at 21:28
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This qualifies under category circuit rework.

The "best" solution, if the pads are still usable, is to purchase the replacement part and re-attach it. The part is about $1 USD but this does not include shipping Vendor Link (Part Number Found in Schematic)

It is generally a good idea to repair something to its original state. Most things can be repaired if desired, for example, the guides I reference below also have sections for repairing traces inside boards. Where there is a will (or an irreplaceable part) there is, usually, a way. An, in fact, there are companies you can pay to do this.


Component Rework

Rework is not trivial, for reattaching the original component you should follow rework procedures for leaded surface mount components, a good guide is available here

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Figure: Illustration representing soldering a leaded component

There are also guides for repairing the missing metal pads, but this is not easy.

What is critical for reattaching connectors is that the heavy duty metal tabs can be soldered down, if that pad is gone you will never have mechanical stability. However, setting it with epoxy can be a substitute


Wire Jumpers

If you do not wish to mount a replacement part, then you should use wire jumpers to create leads for you to attach your power supply to.

The critical thing with using wire jumpers on surface mount pads is to eliminate the possibility of any "pulling" on the wire, no matter what happens at the business end, this is known as Strain Relief

For a good guide on using wire jumpers see this guide

Attach those wires to the two outside pads of the connector footprint.

If those pads are destroyed, there are solderable test pads (aka Probe Points) on the board, indicated on the schematic as PP1 through PP6 which are connected to the USB side of the power supply. You may use these instead of the pads directly on the USB footprint.

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Figure: Schematic Portion showing USB Connector and connected Probe Points (Raspberry Pi 3)


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Figure: Board Section where the relevant probe points are found (Back of Board - Raspberry Pi 3)

Tips

1. Use existing holes for strain relief

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Figure: Routing a jumper through a via for strain relief

2. Route the wire flush to the board add extra "wiggles" to the wire as a form of mechanical strain relief.

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Figure: Example of Routing a Jumper Wire along the surface of a PCB

3. Use Kapton Tape (polyimide film tape) to secure the wire to the board, leave dangling ends

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Figure: I have nothing but good things to say about this tape, the best tape for electronics work, temperature safe to 250C

4. Either solder the jumper wires directly to your power supply, modify a usb extension cable or use a screw terminal breakout board to create a place to connect a standard USB power Supply

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Figure: This is one example of a screw terminal breakout board, there are many many others

  • 1
    @pablo I updated the answer to address your question about the location of the Probe Points. Good Luck – crasic Dec 21 '17 at 4:50
  • This answer is about repairing PCBs rather than specifically repairing a Raspberry Pi. I would urge the user to provide Raspberry Pi related images rather than generic PCB images – Chetan Bhargava Jan 11 '18 at 6:43

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