28

Short answer Yes, most (but not all!) USB power banks are capable of powering a Raspberry Pi, since they usually have an output voltage of 5 V. And yes, by using a (quite large) 50 Ah power bank, you can definitely expect your Pi to run for at least 24 h. See the long answer below for reasoning and further relevant aspects. Long answer According to actual ...


26

Go to a hobby store (or DX.com) and buy a BEC (battery eliminator circuit) intended for model aircraft. $5 gets you a very efficient switch mode voltage regulator, good for around 3A. I use these with all my Pis. Here is an example: http://dx.com/p/hobbywing-5v-6v-3a-switch-mode-ultimate-bec-ubec-15149


10

The question seems to be inadequately answered. The best alternative would be a switching mode power supply with simple circuitry such as this: Although 7805s work well, it's not scalable in the long run. Say you want to add a Camera Module or some other module. It'll be able to drive the circuit but cannot withstand high loads for a long time. The data ...


10

As long as the power bank outputs 5V it will power the Pi. It claims 50000mAh so it claims 2.5 amps per hour for 24 hours. Assume it will deliver half that so 1.25 amps for 24 hours. If that is enough or not will depend on what you have connected and what the Pi is doing.


9

Here is my setup: 30 watt solar panel with a 12 volt charger hooked up to a 33 amp hour, 12 volt battery. Off of the battery I have a 12 volt to 5 volt battery eliminator that drops the voltage safely to 5 volts that I spliced into a micro USB cord. It's been running successfully for two days now. I would like to experiment with a smaller battery and panel ...


9

Yes, should do Just double checking the datasheet of the MT3608: if using AA rechargables instead of batteries, mind the lower voltage (cell voltage 1.2 V), but for two cells in series still above the lower lockout voltage (2 V) of the MT3608 at very low input voltages the efficiency could be lower than 80 %, the datasheet (p. 5) lists 80 % at 3 V and a ...


8

The Pi should not be powered from it's own USB ports. It's not a safe way of supplying power. The correct way is to use either the micro USB port or the correct GPIO pins. The hub you have is at fault here - it shouldn't be supplying power upstream along the data feed cable. You may have to take it apart and cut a wire. Powering the Pi from two places is ...


8

You have to be careful with those 7805's. If you remove power from the 6V side while a powered hub is connected for instance - the 7805 will be reversed biased. This is the archilles heal of the 78XX series. You can help it out somewhat by putting a reverse biased diode (anode to the 5V side) from the input to the output. Additionally, the 7805 are old ...


8

The batteries won't force current through the system. Your bigger problem, though, will be running the Raspberry Pi 2 at all on 4.8 V. It's very close to under-voltage warning (which I saw quoted as 4.65V for the B+). You'll need some kind of DC-DC converter to get the voltage to consistently ≥5V.


8

Based on your picture, it looks like the power switch is flipped off. If you look at the board oriented with RPi PowerPack V1.2 at the top, you'll notice there's a switch at the very bottom of the board. Switch it to On. I'm not sure if this matters, but in the images provided by your link, they all show the RPi being plugged into the top USB port. If they'...


8

Intro: Many of my contributions to this forum have centered around innovative ways to power a Pi which is awkwardly out of reach of a mains socket, specifically using POE. But what do you do if there's no mains power source at all, ie: Pi used in off-grid conditions or mobile use where the Pi is not stationary? As the Pi 4 now had a USB-C Power socket, I ...


7

Yes. You can power it via the ground and 5V pins on the expansion header. Once it's booted you can also back power it via the USB (although I doubt that this is sensible). Both those methods bypass any protection afforded by the 2 amp polyfuse.


6

I have not measured it myself, but this person claims the pi draws about 110 mA after shutdown, i.e., when the OS has halted and just the red PWR led glows. Figures regarding the number of amp-hours in a car battery seem to vary quite widely; if we assume 50, then that's 50 / .11 ~= 454.5 hours such a battery should last with an inoperative pi attached. Of ...


6

The safer is to connect between PP1 (5V) and PP5 (GND). You don't bypass the power fuse of the RPi.


6

You've not explained or shown how you have your batteries arranged, nor provided any specs on them. But it seems likely they are in series - thereby providing ~ 9V output. Batteries in series can provide no more current that a single battery, and even a good quality AA cell isn't capable of much more than 1 amp. And so your battery pack will be unable to ...


5

Never power any device from two sources. The source with the higher voltage will provide the reverse current to the other one and since power supplies have very low internal resistance (by design), eventually one of them will give you a smoke signal. The correct mode of supplying power to RasPi is through microUSB connector, it has the short protection fuse ...


5

According to Raspberry Pi forums, you can supply 5V with a ±5% uncertainty, meaning you could supply from 4.75 to 5.25 volts. The 7805 voltage regulator should be okay for your project, for it could supply a max of 1A and it stays within that uncertainty. This leaves you with an additional 250mA for connecting a keyboard or something else that doesn't ...


5

At a minimum you need: a solar panel, a charge controller, a deep cycle battery, a DC-DC buck converter (to reduce battery voltage to 5V), hardware to mount the panel, something to house all the components. The trick is in sizing the solar components, and that depends on how much sunlight you get and how much reserve power you want. However, even under the ...


5

One thing to be aware of is that those chargers are not regulated, so any spikes, surges, etc will be passed on to the Pi. I would think that regulator circuit like the one below would be a safer long term solution than a car charger. For prototyping, testing etc, your car charger would be fine.


5

Long story short -- there are a few waterproofs, you may even make your own using an acrylic sheet and a bit of glue. But there's no real solution for the solar battery power, the reliable solution that survive at least a few rainy days will include the truckload of batteries and dozens of square feet of the solar panels, driving the cost into the thousands. ...


5

The header power is connected directly to the uUSB connector power and therefore you can power up to 2A through that power supply. But there is still a current limited between 5V and VBUS on the USB so you're limited to pushing 1.2A out of the VBUS So your total supply would be around 1.32A to the Pi Zero


5

The Pi draws about 300mA at 5V, plus whatever your GPS unit would draw. Ignoring the small losses associated with a (switching) step-down converter. Say a total of 2W. That would be equivalent to drawing 1/6A at 12V. If you have a 60Ah battery, it would last for 360h, or 15 days, give or take. So long as you move your car more than once a week, you should ...


4

The numbers you care about are "voltage" and "current" (and perhaps how long the power source would last, in the case of a battery). Voltage is measured in volts, and current in ampere (technically its the "maximum current flow"). You need a 5V 1.2A power supply for a PI (that's five volts, 1.2 ampere). For normal use 1A would also do great (I never found ...


4

Things have moved on a bit, the situation now depends on which model of Pi you have. On early raspberry pi model B boards the polyfuses on the USB ports will initially allow backpowering but are likely to trip out due to overcurrent before the Pi successfully boots. On later raspberry pi model B boards (rev 1 "eco1" with links instead of polyfuses and rev2),...


4

Any external USB battery pack with built in overcharging protection will help your Pi survive power outage. It will simply work as a poor man UPS for your Pi. http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=utf-8&q=usb+battery+pack


4

Sources on the Raspberry Pi forums say the Raspberry Pi uses approximately 500mA add in the 250mA for the camera module, and round for a safety margin equals approximately 1A. A 50,000mAh battery will run 1A for 50 hours. Even with additional safety margin that is plenty to run for 24 hours.


4

Something to keep in mind is that some power packs will shut themselves down if there isn't enough of a power draw. For example, I have a New Trent PowerPak+ 13500mAH power pack, which shuts itself off after a couple minutes if it's only powering an Arduino or Raspberry Pi. (Plugging in my hungry smart phone prevents this) Any USB power pack will certainly ...


4

There is a PoE solution designed specifically for the Pi. The Pi PoE Switch Hat is in production and available for presale). As this is a hat it is designed for the 40pin Pi's (A+ B+ and Pi2).


4

I also have an outrageous setup, but with way bigger batteries and is in a server setup. Your idea will work, as stated by joan. What I would do differently is I'd get a power bank instead. Attach said power bank to power so it's always charging. Then, attach the Pi to the power bank's output. Make sure the power bank supports charging and outputting at the ...


4

I just wanted to let you know that I actually did this and had some bad results. The upvoted answer is correct that your battery will last a long time while powering the Pi. What he doesn't mention however, is that if you don't drive for 2-3 days, your car will still start but the voltage drops so low that your Pi reboots. Also since I did this I started ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible