I think you would call them P*-Headers, where the * designates which one exactly (5/2/3/6).
What you call Opportunity B is known as the P5-Header, and you can use it just like the GPIO-Pins next to it (see also this link).
Opportunity A (P6) can be used to reset your Raspberry Pi: Shorten it it reset. Be careful, though, as doing this while your SD-Card is ...
Another option would be to use a port expander to get additional I/O ports.
For example, the MCP23008 can connect via I²C (only uses two pins) and gives you eight I/O ports.
Since it uses I²C, up to eight of them can be connected to the same two I²C pins to give you up to 64 I/O pins.
Adafruit has a tutorial about how to use the MCP23008 (or MCP23016, the ...
You have a couple of options:
Female to male jumper wires (for use with a breadboard),
Alternatively you can add a set of female headers to the Pi and use the more common male to male jumper wires,
You can use a floppy drive ribbon cable (because the cable has more pins than the Pi it will hang over the edge and prevent it from being used with a case/...
Hat compatible refers to the standard developed by the Pi Foundation for add on boards, and yes HAT it is an acronym for Hardware Attached on Top. You can read more about it here. The release coincided with the move to 40 pin boards B+. Quoting from the page linked above:
In a nutshell a HAT is a rectangular board (65x56mm) that has four
mounting holes ...
It depends on what type of connectors your sensors have. If you have standard 0.1" headers, you can use jumper wires. Depending on the other end of connection (for RaspberryPi side you have to use Female connectors), you can use female to female (F-F) or female to male (F-M) jumper wires. They should be easy to buy on any hobbyst electronics shop. You need ...
Depending on speed and distance to controlled/controlling devices, you can connect DS2408 to the 1-Wire interface.
Each chip provides eight I/O channels. You can attach... many of them. Possibly hundreds. These are not supported by the library, but once you loaded the right modules (modprobe), access is as simple as writing right values to files in /sys/bus/...
It depends on the style of connector.
The IDC connectors which go on ribbon cable (like the one you linked) unfortunately have rather wide sides and will only fit on a standard pin header if they cover it completely.
On the other hand the connectors where you crimp individual pins and then insert them into a housing have much narrower sides and will fit ...
No it's not an ethernet port (and it doesn't look anything like one either).
It's the videocore JTAG port, that connector is used on all Pi models since the B+ (the original raspberry pi model A and B use a pin header instead). It is used by the engineers who developed the Pi for debugging.
Unfortunately it's not much use unless you have access to broadcom ...
As per the comments of @joan and @theashwwanisingla I tested the module/sensor and there is 0 resistance between the + and - pins. So this is simply a broken piece of hardware.
(1) DHT11 Temperature and Humidity Sensor User Manual - Components 101 2018jan05
(2) DHT11 Temperature and Humidity Module Datasheet - AoSong
(3) DHT11 Setup ...
The pins are standard 0.1 inch spacing pins, so you have a lot of options including
ribbon cable with IDC connectors. Good option if you want to bring all the pins to another board using a single cable. Downside is that the IDC connectors have wide sides which means you must use one that completely covers the header.
single pin crimp sockets. These are ...
The Pi hardware outputs composite video and HDMI (and can output a low resolution VGA if you are prepared to sacrifice most of the usable GPIOs).
Some LCD screens may be driven from SPI, I2C, or parallel GPIO. They tend to be medium to low resolution. They use driver chips such as agm1264k, bd663474, hx83xxx, ili93xx, ili94xx, pcd8544, ra8875, s6dxxxx, ...
Tablet / Laptop HDMIs "usually" do not support dual (master and slave) HDMI mode as far as I know. They are usually configured to function in master mode and hence you can connect it to TV or monitor to get tablet / laptop display on TV / monitor but not the other way around. I didn't see anywhere in specs that it supports dual mode, and hence it is most ...
Raspberry Pi 4 video supports dual 4k HDMI (micro hdmi sockets). Also supported is composite output but it's not clear if this can be used simulataneously as the HDMI ports. It certainly wouldn't be desirable to do this due to processing overhead and visual quality differences between the HDMI and composite outputs.
Whilst it may be possible to ...
Soldered joints ensure both good mechanical and electrical connections - fun Tak is unlikely to provide a suitable mechanical bond in such small spaces, nor is it likely to have proper electrical conductivity.
However, something like the Pi Cobbler and ribbon cable from Adafruit will allow you to separate the Pi and the breadboard when desired and not ...
I am almost certain that is a JST connector, eBay or a local electronics store should have what you need. A cheaper and easier solution would be to use male to male jumper wires to connect it to a breadboard.
This laser draws 110 mA at 5V, while RPi GPIOs only provide 16mA at 3.3V. You'll need to amplify your GPIO signal to power the laser. Most probably, the black wire is (-) and red one is (+), so the correct way to wire it to your RPi could be:
simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab
This sounds completely feasible as the iPod/iPhone is powered with 5V/1A.
I suggest you start with something like the Dock Connector Pinout.
But I think the most problematic part will be to get the Dock Connector Socket.
According to my product with 6 pins too, I have following configuration, connecting it to an UART USB adapter. Seems that only 4 pins are needed, TD/RD/GND/Vin(5V)
Vin is not working in 3V on my part so 5v is needed
An image is available
Comming from this store
I'm answering over some internet researches.
Your product is replica of this product (I guess). You need to use jumper cables to connect it and wire connection is
Red = VCC
Black = GND
Yellow = TXD
White = RXD
Blue = BL (backlight)
Green = RST
Probably your product will beep after successfully connection too like referenced product.
Try other product's ...
I think the normative way to avoid hassles with the GPIO breakout on the pi itself is to attach a ribbon cable and put a further breakout on the end which is compatible with a common breadboard. Here's an example. Adafruit calls this a "cobbler", which I believe is a play on "pie" and not an actual electronics term. There are other are other similar ...
If you are referring to stranded vs solid core cables there is no difference in this regard. I assume you are connecting these wires to GPIO pins of the pi?
The reason stranded wires exist is because they bend easily without breaking. They actually carry less current than solid core. But carrying more current DOES NOT MEAN more voltage. Whatever voltage ...
You don't give enough information about what you are connecting to answer.
I would use an IDC connector (possibly paired with coloured ribbon cable) for the Pi end.
These are used inside PCs to connect peripherals, so should be reliable.
I would solder the other ends to the circuitry at the other end, but this depends on what you are using.
I use a number ...
There are now (as of November 2013) two camera modules available to connect to the S5 header: a regular one and one without an infrared filter on top of the CCD.
See http://www.raspberrypi.org/camera and http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/5128
They're available for purchase through most of the same distributors that sell the Raspberry Pi.