The 5V Pin is directly connected to the USB Input, so basically you could draw as much current as the Power supply can provide minus the current draw from the Pi.
But consider that it has to go through the PCB Coppertraces so if you draw to much you will grill your Pi.
Generally speaking, it's a better idea to power Circuits (especially ones who draw more ...
Tried BCM2835 out and it does the job, below is quick-start for those who need it:
BCM2835 is the MCU chip of the Raspberry Pi, whose library can often be used to access the GPIO on BCM 2835 chip. You can use the librarty to control the rigistors of a BCM2835 chip directly just like using STM32 library to control an STM32 chip. in contrast, the libraries ...
May not be a complete answer to your question but useful to know.
If you really need fast GPIO or GPIO which is "real time" (meaning that you can guarantee, for example, how long a signal stays high / goes low for, then you should not be using a non-RTOS (Real Time OS) device, such as a Raspberry Pi with Linux kernel. (Or if you need particularly &...
SSDs have wear levelling technology and quote their expected life usually having at least 60Tb of writes before failure. If my calculations are correct and using your 1Mb per minute estimate that should give you around 120 years before failure.
There are more urban myths about the Pi and SD Cards than fact.
It is true that they can and do wear out (I have 2 failures in 9 years) but the risk is much over-rated.
If a card does become read-only, this is often a sign that it has worn out. In this rare case it is unrepairable, and the SD Card firmware does this to protect existing data.
Many of the ...
It does not matter whether the relay is powered from the Pi or independently. You will however need sufficient power for both devices, a 3A PSU should be sufficient.
Yes the GPIO pins are limited to provide 16mA individually and no more than 50mA or so in aggregate. You cannot address this limitation without some transistor circuitry to provide current gain....
This sounds like a classic signal integrity problem.
If you have different cables, test those, perhaps you'll find one that your TV likes better than others. You may also consider buying a new one, especially if the ones you have are cheap, thin and no-name. As always, shorter cables work better than longer ones, especially if the cable is the root cause of ...
The camera takes some time to meter the exposure and determine the white balance. raspistill takes the option -t followed by some integer number of milliseconds as its "preview" time. If no value is specified, it defaults to 5000, or 5 seconds.
This has been a source of confusion for some time. About 4 months before you posted your question a "Raspberry Pi Engineer" claimed in this forum post that power consumption would be 3mA (15mW power) following a poweroff command. We're still waiting for this :)
To be fair, there has been some improvement in power consumption since that post, but as ...
raspi-config is a bash script.
It has NO settings, it is just a front end to the many config files.
You can read the script to see what it does, although it is rather long and involved.
If you asked a more specific question about what settings you are interested in you may be able to get more details.
If I use one of the USB ports, chop up a USB cable and take the black (gnd) to each of the mount, guide-camera and main camera (the parts of the system that feel 'electrified'), would this ground everything to the RPi and eliminate the issue?
This has NOTHING to do with the Pi.
This is a common issue with unearthed devices. TV and other audio/visual devices are common offenders.
The official Pi supplies (also virtually all plugpack supplies) are Double Insulated. This means they float WRT earth.
It is possible (probable) that there is some capacitative coupling from the mains to the (nominal) 5V/...
AFAIK the MXL7704 device on the Pi4 is managed by the Video Core and not accessible to the CPU.
It doesn't "measure" the voltage it uses an in-chip comparator.
The MXL7704 data sheet is readily available.
INT_SCL and INT_SDA are not shown as connected to the expansion header (as far as I can see).
Perhaps they are connected to one of the other I2C buses on the Pi4.
I suppose you could try writing drivers for those other buses.
User's @user113052 answer worked for me but in my case the answer was incomplete and I can't comment on his post (low rep).
File /usr/lib/firmware/brcm/brcmfmac43455-sdio.bin didn't exist on my rpi4b and instead I created this symlink (considering I have rpi4b as there are more files for different raspberryPIs):
sudo ln -s ...
so I backed up everything with dd to a 1TB hard drive.
That is the best action that you did. When you try anything, do it on a copy of this file, not on this file itself.
First make a copy of the image and work on that copy. If anything goes wrong, you will still have the original image.
The fact that you use fsck on the original image suggests that you ...
I2C sensors have address and in many devices these addresses can be changed. Different types of I2C devices can be on the Same I2C bus. Be sure you are careful with the pull up resistors (required), if more then one resistor be sure the combined resistance is not to low. Note the pull up resistors go to the 3.3V power supply not between SCL and SDA.
It looks like you got a board which has been through rework after production. The SD card slot was not properly soldered after reflow, so it was re-soldered manually, and manual soldering doesn't look as pretty as reflow (and has a higher failure rate).
The white stuff around the pads is the solder flux which whoever who did the repair didn't bother to clean....
It started working after I set the QMK firmware's USB_MAX_POWER_CONSUMPTION to 50 from 500 and then power-cycled everything. I'm not entirely sure this fixed it, but I can't get it to break, so I'm calling it fixed.
There was a May '21 revision to the documentation you referenced. I don't know what it said when you read it (in April '21??), but there is a boot parameter defined now: dvfs.
The document is a bit murky to my reading, but it indicates that setting dvfs=1 (in /boot/config.txt) is required to allow the core voltages to be reduced and thereby achieve the "...
You are using NOOBS (which the Foundation now hides from unsuspecting novices).
If you want multi OS support try PINN
The reason you can't expand the filesystem is because dd copies the device as it is, including the partition table, which continues to think it is 32GB.
If you used SD CARD Copier it would expand/contract to the actual size of the target ...
You can emulate low speed USB (1.x) over GPIO. You might need some circuitry for 5V 3.3V interfacing but it is doable. Here is an example of someone patching such a system into an esp https://github.com/cnlohr/espusb
You may want to check out this Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/Multiple-Raspberry-PI-3D-Scanner/
He initially connected 40 Pis together using Ethernet to perform body scanning.
In a update (Step 8) he increased the count up to 90 Pis tied together:
Did you burn it directly on USB stick or cloned from microSD?
I first installed Raspberry OS from microSD and then I used "clone microSD" from the Applications menu to transfer all to USB stick. Then in raspi-config I changed to boot from USB first. All went ok.
you could use the PoE HAT (Power Over Ethernet Hardware Attached on Top)
like this - https://in.images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=AwrwJQ2VXNxg9HUAsxC9HAx.;_ylu=c2VjA3NlYXJjaARzbGsDYnV0dG9u;_ylc=...
its best that you use usb hubs.
unfortunately, that's the only choice i know and have...
it's something similar to this:-