There's a short piece that includes Pi 3 benchmarks over at the PiMoroni blog.
All of the benchmarks below were carried out with just a USB keyboard
and mouse connected with power supplied from the official Raspberry Pi
Power Supply, with the exception of the WiFi dongle test in which the
USB WiFi dongle was also connected. The Pis were naked, i.e. ...
When shutting down the HDMI and USB on the Pi3, the current drops to 160 milliAmps.
In my tests, this was roughly 200 milliAmps on the Pi2. Thus, shutting down hardware (if you don't need it), can be a huge energy saver.
Use this command to turn HDMI off:
And this command to turn it on:
Use this ...
tl;dr: Those models that have holes in the PCB are made for M2.5 (or UNC 3-48) screws and a length fitting to the enclosure or respective counterpart.
Pi 1 B+ contains four M2.5 mounting holes - supposedly drilled to 2.75 +/- 0.05 mm. This information is taken from the "Raspberry Pi B+ Mechanical Schematic" (official drawing by J. Adams, 07/03/2014, to be ...
Should be fine. Antistatic bags are very slightly conductive, but I doubt you can affect the operation of the RPi with it.
They are typically made from PET which has a melting point of 260°C which is somewhat higher than the lead free solder 232°C, so if you are melting the bag you have other problems!
I used mine in the cardboard box is came in (from ...
More information on this will be available as and when the units start arriving with purchasers and we get a clearer picture of overclocking capabilities and such. To the best of my knowledge the figures from the benchmarking done by the pimoroni.com blog are accurate:
In terms of CPU temperature, the Raspberry Pi 3 runs significantly
hotter than the Pi ...
If you look on the Raspberry Pi Wiki Resources, under Documentation you will find 3D CAD files:
RPi Model B 3D CAD files
Theses are various 3D CAD Versions in both RAR and ZIP.
CATIA V5 RAR
CATIA V5 ZIP
I would say those are the "official" 3D CAD files. You ...
The rev. 2 model A and B both have a breakout for a second I2C bus, with the caveat that you can't use it and the camera header at the same time (this is software switchable while the pi is running).
The eight hole breakout is easy to see just inside of the GPIO header.
This is usually referred to as the P5 header in documentation, but on one (of two) of ...
I am sure it will be fine. The newer zero obviously has the same footprint when viewed from above, judging by the placement of the screw holes in relation to the GPIO breakout.
The camera connector is laid on its side. Although there's no picture besides a top shot on the Foundation blog post, in this Adafruit image:
It is appears that the connector, at ...
I've just had a look at the Raspberry Pi A/B/A+/B+/2 PCB mounting holes and they all seem to be a little over 2.5mm diameter so a M2.5 machine screw/bolt would be the best fit. I usually use Nylon M2.5 bolts, washers, spacers and nuts when mounting boards to the Raspberry Pi.
Long story short -- there are a few waterproofs, you may even make your own using an acrylic sheet and a bit of glue. But there's no real solution for the solar battery power, the reliable solution that survive at least a few rainy days will include the truckload of batteries and dozens of square feet of the solar panels, driving the cost into the thousands.
I use it with standard RPi cases above on the 3+, the lid will fit but it gets hot in the office so the fan runs all the time, so I run it with the lid off as it is our main DNS box and I want it close to the centre of the network. The machines in the basement have the lid on them and run ok.
Whilst the board has an extra layer on it, that layer doesn't ...
Is there a premade solderable HAT-like board
Yes, tons of these are on sale. A quick search using words like "prototype" and "DIY" revealed there's a board called "ModMyPi", and there are certainly others:
For those who said it's not possible to receive a shock off the Raspberry Pi - you are wrong. I got quite a nasty jolt from the capacitor next to the micro-USB power input. The device was unplugged at the time. This was a concern as I have a pacemaker fitted, but fortunately the charge is nowhere near enough to cause any problems there.
The Pi still ...
I find a small flat-headed screwdriver to be extremely helpful in these situations.
Just find a small crack between the case and the Raspberry Pi, then carefully insert the screwdriver. Use the screwdriver as a fulcrum to lift the Raspberry Pi out of the case (keeping the case stationary). Please be gentle.
The case that I purchased for my Pi has cross-shaped holes that can be easily used for mounting to a wall:
SB Raspberry Pi Case (Clear) on Amazon
This should work well for you if there is enough space between the back of your monitor and the wall to fit the Pi-case, so they would be mounted separately. If the space is limited, you can also use just one ...
In your GPIO connector you have lots of ports to use. You have your GPIO ports that you manager from the PI, and you want to keep for your future projects.
But you also have a simple +5V output and a ground (GND). This two little guys have a current going through them all the time the PI is on so, connecting a led here will light it up as long as your pi is ...
No. As you can see below, on the Zero v 1.3 the camera connector extends completely to one end and the SD card holder to within a mm of the other -- and slightly outside that line there's a resistor (?) mounted (immediately below the holder in the picture), so you probably do not want to file anything off.
Looking at one in my hand I'd say if you removed ...
The Raspberry Pi is designed to be an embeddable device. So long as the environment around the RPi isn't exceptionally warm and humid, the RPi will be fine in an enclosed container. You will never get an air tight seal with a lego case anyway. I mean, you have to leave holes in it for the ports after all.
Since LEGO bricks are made of a nonconductive ...
"How much it is radiating in the RF spectrum?" is a question that's easy to ask, but not to answer - at least not specifically. And if you did have the specific answers, they will only have meaning if you were familiar with the testing standards, or knew the susceptibility of all the items in your environment.
Perhaps one way to answer your question is to ...
Yes, there are ;) - and 3D-printed parts are pretty light.
The limiting factor is the battery. The Raspberry Pi (no matter which model) draws too much power to be usable as a smartwatch with a light battery.
At 55°C, the raspberry pi cannot melt its case.
ABS plastic begins to soften at around 100°C.
Regarding the Pi being damaged, don't worry about it. Raspberry Pies throttle back their CPU speed if they reach 85°C.
*Actually there have been a few rare instances of a Pi melting its case or getting ridiculously hot. This happens when the SD card or CPU ...
I used 2 x spludgers on the HDMI side to get the 2 x lock tabs away from where they lock onto the base and then slowly ease it out of the base with a final lift out on the ethernet/ub side as per Lazloman
I doubt you will find an off the shelf case that fits both. However, you may be able to modify this case made by modmypi to fit, assuming you get the right number of spacer plates (the spacer plates were specifically designed to accommodate expansion boards). You could also go the DIY route and build a Lego case. I would also suggest that you may get better ...
It can be done and it has been done. MagPi Magazine's 'Raspberry Pie Projects Book 2' features a gaming mouse with a built in zero running Quake III. You can download the book for free: https://www.raspberrypi.org/magpi/issues/projects-2/
There are several options that very in flexibility, cost, difficulty etc.
My preferred method is to use a Pi Cobbler and a PermaProto Board from Adafruit. You could prototype with a breadboard and then transfer the components to the protoboard and solder the connections to make it more permanent (note there are more suppliers for these parts besides ...
I don't believe that there is an "absolute" answer to this question. What I'd suggest you do is go to ebay and search on the phrase "project box" and have a skim of the results. What you will find is a rich assortment of the types of boxes and cases which can be used to house a finished project (circuit, solution). In order to firmly attach the "internals"...
You can find the official Mechanical Drawings on this page where they provide - unfortunately - only the schematics of the Pi Zero, Rev 1.2 (pdf). Rev 1.3 however differs only in one aspect: it has an additional fine-pitch connector for the camera, see here (with photographs and everything). This connector sticks out on one side of the PCB for about 1 mm and ...